I decided to open baffle this pair of cabinet distressed Tannoy Oxford Gold's. The original boxes were definitely worse for wear and often I found the bass boxy if not boomy due to the ported design of these speakers.
I opted for a really nice 9 ply with Cherry wood veneer. I also decided to invert the tweeter under the woofer like early Mission 700 or 717 speakers.
This is the finished result.
Sound wise these speakers no longer sound confined to the box, bass is much tighter and cleaner but not as low as when in the box. The mid range is more open as the woofer seems to handle most if not all of the mid range frequencies.
Aesthetically these speakers are my best project to date, I love the look of them and the pictures on this site do not give the speakers real justice.
I opted for a really nice 9 ply with Cherry wood veneer. I also decided to invert the tweeter under the woofer like early Mission 700 or 717 speakers.
This is the finished result.
Sound wise these speakers no longer sound confined to the box, bass is much tighter and cleaner but not as low as when in the box. The mid range is more open as the woofer seems to handle most if not all of the mid range frequencies.
Aesthetically these speakers are my best project to date, I love the look of them and the pictures on this site do not give the speakers real justice.
Hi,
ReplyDeletehow do you decide whether to attach/screw the speakers from behind or on the front? I am struggling to find a place that would rout the cutout for the woofer (20 degree angle as per instructions). Without the routing, the alternative would be to mount the woofer from the front. How important in your opinion is the mounting front vs back?
With the Tannoy's I mounted them on the front of the baffle as there is no other way to mount them with the gold trim around the woofer.
DeleteMounting on the front or back is a matter of aesthetics with the drivers and the wood.
this chap seems to think it's important for frontal dispersion: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Cobies/
DeleteI have honestly no clue. Just tricky to find someone to do the woodwork, but if it doesn't influence sounds.... ?
Open baffles to me are a bit of a "give it a try and see how it turns out".
DeleteBaffle size does make a difference usually around 32-36 inches tall and up to about 18 inches wide as a max.
You do not want the back wave reflecting off the back wall and then hitting an area to big on the back of the baffle. Some even put dampening material on the back of the baffle to absorb the sound.
I took a basic course at a local place called Makers Lab and they provide the space and tools for woodworking and more.
I also just purchased another pair of Electro Voice SP12B's and I will make a new baffle and double up these speakers.
That project will be done in the fall